When does ramen leave the realm of the mundane and become something else? The age-old economy and food conveyance of students and struggling proletarians says “I am ready to move on, to be elevated.” Here at Kolm Sibulat, or 3-Onions, three Russian chefs have taken their ramen artistry to new heights. And so too, your budget, where versions of scallop (rear) and beef (foreground) ramen reach $25. Yet, the journey is other worldly. Fresh hand-made noodles, premium beef or seafood, rich broth. The home-made kimchi, where sweetness marries heat, much to my palate’s pleasure, brought wonderment, and requests for more. “Let go,” I told myself, “Allow yourself to be carried away.” And I was. The most delicious ramen imaginable.